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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.